Difficulty
Easy
Steps
10
Time Required
25 minutes - 1 hour
Sections
1
- Oil and Oil filter
- 10 steps
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Back1976 Mercedes-Benz 230.6
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What you need
Step 1
Oil and Oil filter
- We’ll be working on my old Mercedes today, changing the Oil and Filter
- Pop the bonnet, or in USA “pop the hood”, in RHD cars, the catch is on the left side next to the door
- It’s two-hands to open the actual bonnet as there are 2 ajar catches on this model - one on either side near the sides of the front of the bonnet/hood
We’ll be working on my old Mercedes today, changing the Oil and Filter
Pop the bonnet, or in USA “pop the hood”, in RHD cars, the catch is on the left side next to the door
It’s two-hands to open the actual bonnet as there are 2 ajar catches on this model - one on either side near the sides of the front of the bonnet/hood
1024
Step 2
Jacking points
- I put my hydraulic jack in the centre of the front of the sub-frame
- I put the jack stands under the frame/unibody box sections
- I use cardboard instead of a creeper - more leverage, and easy clean up
I put my hydraulic jack in the centre of the front of the sub-frame
I put the jack stands under the frame/unibody box sections
I use cardboard instead of a creeper - more leverage, and easy clean up
Step 3
Removing the drain bolt
- I used a 14mm hex or “Allen” key
- It appears some of the previous oil-changers over the last 40 years did not have the correct tool as there are vise-grip marks on the bolt
I used a 14mm hex or “Allen” key
It appears some of the previous oil-changers over the last 40 years did not have the correct tool as there are vise-grip marks on the bolt
Step 4
The drain video!
- See the oil flow
See the oil flow
Step 5
Remove old filter
- Check your new filter etc, I used Hengst E117H D07, but last time I used Mann H720X, both kits came with new o-rings and copper crush-washers
- The oil filter is a cartridge-in-housing type located on the left-side of the engine block
- I only had room for a wrench/spanner and had to work it a bit before loosening it with my fingers
Check your new filter etc, I used Hengst E117H D07, but last time I used Mann H720X, both kits came with new o-rings and copper crush-washers
The oil filter is a cartridge-in-housing type located on the left-side of the engine block
I only had room for a wrench/spanner and had to work it a bit before loosening it with my fingers
Step 6
Drain filter housing and old filter
- Before removing the oil filter housing fully, move your catch pan under the area to catch the mess
- Clean around the housing mounting plate area with a clean-ish rag, I use 2 grades of rag, the super-oily one first to pick up the bulk of the oil, then a cleaner rag after
- I used a small pick to pull out the old o-ring - also check you don’t misplace the washer on the long bolt
Before removing the oil filter housing fully, move your catch pan under the area to catch the mess
Clean around the housing mounting plate area with a clean-ish rag, I use 2 grades of rag, the super-oily one first to pick up the bulk of the oil, then a cleaner rag after
I used a small pick to pull out the old o-ring - also check you don’t misplace the washer on the long bolt
Step 7
Clean out the housing and install new filter
- Clean out the filter housing with your rags etc, then install a new o-ring if your kit came with one
- Oil the new o-ring for re-installation
- Place the new filter cartridge in the housing and insert the bolt with washer on it
- Hold the bolt in and thread your hand down next to the block, lucky these old cars have heaps of space to work/see
- Tighten the bolt down, but don’t over-tighten as it’s only a cast-metal housing
Clean out the filter housing with your rags etc, then install a new o-ring if your kit came with one
Oil the new o-ring for re-installation
Place the new filter cartridge in the housing and insert the bolt with washer on it
Hold the bolt in and thread your hand down next to the block, lucky these old cars have heaps of space to work/see
Tighten the bolt down, but don’t over-tighten as it’s only a cast-metal housing
Step 8
Ensure your drain bolt and filter are tight
- Tighten your drain bolt and clean the area around the bolt with a rag
- Check the area for leaks after filling
- As you can see, my old filter was a Mann H720
Tighten your drain bolt and clean the area around the bolt with a rag
Check the area for leaks after filling
As you can see, my old filter was a Mann H720
Step 9
Lower the car
- Lift the car up from that front sub-frame lifting area and remove your jack-stands
- Then gently lower the car so it’s level for filling
Lift the car up from that front sub-frame lifting area and remove your jack-stands
Then gently lower the car so it’s level for filling
Step 10
Fill the car
- I usually clean around the Oil fill cap with a rag
- The dip-stick on this engine is next to the spark-plug wires
- I used a stubby big-mouth funnel
- I used 20W-50 for this old car, it needed about 5.5L or so
I usually clean around the Oil fill cap with a rag
The dip-stick on this engine is next to the spark-plug wires
I used a stubby big-mouth funnel
I used 20W-50 for this old car, it needed about 5.5L or so
Fresh oil and filter installed :)
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Gaspard Leon
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