2010 2014 Subaru Legacy Horn Replacement 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 Repair Guide

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Moderate

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                          1 hour

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Horn
7 steps

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Back2010-2014 Subaru Legacy
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Introduction

This guide is a bit of a cheat – the car was in the shop, and the front body panels were already removed from the car. So to accomplish this at home, you’ll either have to finagle your way through the bumper, or better yet, take off the front bumper before embarking on this adventure.

I’ll try to include instructions for bumper removal once the car returns from the shop.

What you need

Step 1

              Horn

These are the [stock] horns you are looking for. One is located on the left-side of the radiator (when looking at the car), while the other one is next to the air intake / water tank.
Both horns are identical in terms of disassembly/replacement. The one mounted near the radiator is a bit harder to access, since the hex bolt is obscured by a frame – but it’s not that much more difficult to remove.

These are the [stock] horns you are looking for. One is located on the left-side of the radiator (when looking at the car), while the other one is next to the air intake / water tank.

Both horns are identical in terms of disassembly/replacement. The one mounted near the radiator is a bit harder to access, since the hex bolt is obscured by a frame – but it’s not that much more difficult to remove.

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Step 2

Use a 12 mm wrench to remove the bolt holding the horn in place.

Use a 12 mm wrench to remove the bolt holding the horn in place.

Step 3

Unplug the power connector from the horn, and use a wire stripper to expose a bare portion of the wire. The “20 ga” hole seemed the best fit for this purpose.
The PIAA horns have their power/ground connections on top of the horn, so the stock wire won’t be long enough. At the same time, the ground cables that come with the horns are too long – which is a perfect hack in this case!
Snip about 4" of the ground cable wire (the 1/4" female spade connector side) and use a butt connector to attach it to the horn’s power wire.
It may be a good idea to insulate the connection with some electrical tape after it’s been crimped properly.

Unplug the power connector from the horn, and use a wire stripper to expose a bare portion of the wire. The “20 ga” hole seemed the best fit for this purpose.

The PIAA horns have their power/ground connections on top of the horn, so the stock wire won’t be long enough. At the same time, the ground cables that come with the horns are too long – which is a perfect hack in this case!

Snip about 4" of the ground cable wire (the 1/4" female spade connector side) and use a butt connector to attach it to the horn’s power wire.

It may be a good idea to insulate the connection with some electrical tape after it’s been crimped properly.

Step 4

Now you should have a shortened ground cable with a bare wire on one end, and that half-loop connector on the other.
Attach another 1/4" female spade connector to the end of the ground cable, and plug it into the lower of the two male spade connectors on the PIAA horn.

Now you should have a shortened ground cable with a bare wire on one end, and that half-loop connector on the other.

Attach another 1/4" female spade connector to the end of the ground cable, and plug it into the lower of the two male spade connectors on the PIAA horn.

Step 5

The factory bolt is a bit larger in diameter than the half-circle connector will allow – unless it is expanded! So insert a needle-nose plier into the center for the connector and then spread it apart in order to accommodate the bolt.
Route the bolt through the horn’s mounting hole.
Screw the bolt / ground wire / horn assembly into the factory mounting hole.

The factory bolt is a bit larger in diameter than the half-circle connector will allow – unless it is expanded! So insert a needle-nose plier into the center for the connector and then spread it apart in order to accommodate the bolt.

Route the bolt through the horn’s mounting hole.

Screw the bolt / ground wire / horn assembly into the factory mounting hole.

Step 6

Plug in the DC power line into the top male connector of the horn. The final wiring / horn assembly can be seen in the first image.
Once you’re done with the first horn, the second should be the same exact procedure – so go get ’em!

Plug in the DC power line into the top male connector of the horn. The final wiring / horn assembly can be seen in the first image.

Once you’re done with the first horn, the second should be the same exact procedure – so go get ’em!

Step 7

So that’s it! Here’s a before-and-after horn comparison, so you get an idea of the sound difference.
I don’t believe the PIAAs are that much more loud, but they are definitely a nicer sounding setup than the stock honkers.

So that’s it! Here’s a before-and-after horn comparison, so you get an idea of the sound difference.

I don’t believe the PIAAs are that much more loud, but they are definitely a nicer sounding setup than the stock honkers.

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Author

                    Miroslav Djuric

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Introduction#

What you need#

Introduction

What you need