Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

2

Time Required

Suggest a time??

Sections

1

  • 3 - Kettle - Common breakdowns
  • 2 steps

Flags

Member-Contributed Guide

An awesome member of our community made this guide. It is not managed by iFixit staff.

  • BackEtude d’une bouilloire (kettle)

  • Full Screen

  • Options

  • History

  • Save to Favorites

  • Download PDF

  • Translate

  • Get Shareable Link

  • Embed This Guide

  • Notify Me of Changes

  • Stop Notifications

Introduction

Step 1

              Resistor fault, base               
  • One of the frequent failures is the resistor insulation fault. This is the case when the device is energized and the differential circuit breaker “trips”. There is unfortunately not much to do, except to change the resistance.
  • The resistance can also be switched off. Not necessarily tripping at the switchboard, but the water does not heat up. To check the resistance value, you must use an ohmmeter. Knowing that the power of the kettle is between 920 and 1100W, R=U²/PR=230²/1100=48 ohms. Our resistor actually measures 54 ohms
  • Another failure may be due to the cable or the socket of the base. To check its condition, simply use a multimeter to test the continuity between the terminals of the wall socket and the socket fixed to the base. To reach the contacts of this one, press on the protection of the central contact. This releases the other 2 contacts.
  • The other causes come from the M/A device, located in the tank. We describe in step 2, a problem encountered on this element.

One of the frequent failures is the resistor insulation fault. This is the case when the device is energized and the differential circuit breaker “trips”. There is unfortunately not much to do, except to change the resistance.

The resistance can also be switched off. Not necessarily tripping at the switchboard, but the water does not heat up. To check the resistance value, you must use an ohmmeter. Knowing that the power of the kettle is between 920 and 1100W, R=U²/PR=230²/1100=48 ohms. Our resistor actually measures 54 ohms

Another failure may be due to the cable or the socket of the base. To check its condition, simply use a multimeter to test the continuity between the terminals of the wall socket and the socket fixed to the base. To reach the contacts of this one, press on the protection of the central contact. This releases the other 2 contacts.

The other causes come from the M/A device, located in the tank. We describe in step 2, a problem encountered on this element.

1024

Step 2

              On/off device               
  • The problem was that the water would not heat up when the switch was turned on! After successfully testing the resistance and continuity of the power supply at the base, the remaining element that could be a problem is the M/A device located in the tank.
  • It turned out that after removing the part and disassembling it completely, the plate responsible for cutting the high temperature circuit was permanently activated.
  • This plate is in contact with the resistor support. It heats up and deforms. While deforming, it presses on a plastic “finger” which presses on another plate which cuts the circuit. Apparently, for some reason, the finger was pressing on the plate continuously, which prevented the current from passing.
  • After having shortened the length of the “finger” to approximately 1mm, the normal function was restored. It is possible that in the long run, the plate loses its original characteristics (elasticity) and the device malfunctions.
  • Important: when reassembling, do not forget to coat the plate with thermal paste to promote heat conduction with the resistor support.

The problem was that the water would not heat up when the switch was turned on! After successfully testing the resistance and continuity of the power supply at the base, the remaining element that could be a problem is the M/A device located in the tank.

It turned out that after removing the part and disassembling it completely, the plate responsible for cutting the high temperature circuit was permanently activated.

This plate is in contact with the resistor support. It heats up and deforms. While deforming, it presses on a plastic “finger” which presses on another plate which cuts the circuit. Apparently, for some reason, the finger was pressing on the plate continuously, which prevented the current from passing.

After having shortened the length of the “finger” to approximately 1mm, the normal function was restored. It is possible that in the long run, the plate loses its original characteristics (elasticity) and the device malfunctions.

Important: when reassembling, do not forget to coat the plate with thermal paste to promote heat conduction with the resistor support.

That’s it! After having studied the first two tutorials on toasters, the functionalities, then the different sub-assemblies that compose it, we have just reviewed the main causes of failure of this device.

We hope that this has allowed you to learn more about your appliance and thus be able to repair it by yourself.

Cancel: I did not complete this guide.

        shingle is helping us fix the world!      Want to contribute?      Start translating › 

Special thanks to these translators:

100%

shingle

Author

                                      with 1 other contributor 

                    Atelier Soudé                     

Member since: 12/13/2018

1,689 Reputation

                                      9 Guides authored                  



                       Badges:
                       16







                                                        +13 more badges                           

Team

                       Atelier Soudé                        

                                                  Member of Atelier Soudé 



                    Community                     


                                            4 Members                     


                                            18 Guides authored