Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

19

Time Required

                          2 hours

Sections

1

  • Capacitors
  • 19 steps

Flags

Member-Contributed Guide

An awesome member of our community made this guide. It is not managed by iFixit staff.

  • BackAcer AL2216W

  • Full Screen

  • Options

  • History

  • Save to Favorites

  • Download PDF

  • Edit

  • Translate

  • Get Shareable Link

  • Embed This Guide

  • Notify Me of Changes

  • Stop Notifications

Introduction

Note: While some issues may be corrected with a partial repair, this is NOT RECOMMENDED. One bad capacitor usually means the rest will fail!

  • Power issues (Present issue)Excessive transformer/inverter hum (Present issue)Backlight problemsAuto adjust problems (VGA) (Present issue)Random power issues that only resolve if the monitor is unpluggedVideo issues (Ex: Unstable image, video instability)

NOTE: Most referenced values are obsolete, or PSU specific - validate which ones you need before purchasing parts. AS THIS GUIDE (AND MONITOR) HAS AGED, MANY OF THE ORIGINAL CAPACITORS BECAME OBSOLETE AND WILL NEED TO BE UPGRADED GRADUALLY, AS OLD VALUES BECOME HARD TO FIND. This will not impact the monitor electrically, as long as the upgraded part is balanced (Example: 25V capacitor is obsolete, but a 35V part with the same uF rating is available or voltage matches, but replacement is 100uF better) and all of them are replaced at the same time. NOTE: I have not tried partial replacements with upgrades, so I do not know keeping the originals and upgraded capacitors will work. It’s always best practice to avoid this anyway as the rest will fail and will likely need to be upgraded too.While I have done my best throughout this guide’s life to counter this problem with nearly identical shelf stable substitutes if the original is “obsolete in practice”, these will also become obsolete and will need to be further upgraded.

  • 25V 1000uF (x2)10V 1000uF (x1)25V 220uF (x2)16V 2200uF (x1)Inverter coil capacitor. This will not be present on most power supplies as it was removed in newer revisions.

  • Inverter coil capacitor. This will not be present on most power supplies as it was removed in newer revisions.

What you need

Step 1

              Discharge the old capacitors
  • CAUTION: If you are uncertain about handing high voltage parts, follow all provided warnings! A capacitor discharge tool is STRONGLY RECOMMENDED.
  • The filter capacitor will hold the most residual charge. Use caution around this capacitor!
  • Unplug the monitor for 24-48 hours. Wait 5-7 days before swapping the filter capacitor.

CAUTION: If you are uncertain about handing high voltage parts, follow all provided warnings! A capacitor discharge tool is STRONGLY RECOMMENDED.

The filter capacitor will hold the most residual charge. Use caution around this capacitor!

Unplug the monitor for 24-48 hours. Wait 5-7 days before swapping the filter capacitor.

1024

Step 2

              Remove the stand
  • This monitor never came with a hinge cap. If yours has one, unclup the marks in black.
  • Remove the 4 screws from the monitor stand with a Philips #1 screwdriver. Remove the bottom screws first.

This monitor never came with a hinge cap. If yours has one, unclup the marks in black.

Remove the 4 screws from the monitor stand with a Philips #1 screwdriver. Remove the bottom screws first.

Step 3

              Remove the back of the monitor
  • Sort this screw separately, as it is unique.
  • Remove 4 fine threaded screws from the back of the monitor with a Phillips #0 screwdriver. All of these screws are the same.

Sort this screw separately, as it is unique.

Remove 4 fine threaded screws from the back of the monitor with a Phillips #0 screwdriver. All of these screws are the same.

Step 4

              Unlatch the clips (Bottom)
  • If the monitor has never been serviced, a flathead screwdriver may help at the expensive of damaging the plastic.
  • On the bottom of the monitor, there are four slots to open the monitor. To release these clips, use a Jimmy or flathead screwdriver.

If the monitor has never been serviced, a flathead screwdriver may help at the expensive of damaging the plastic.

On the bottom of the monitor, there are four slots to open the monitor. To release these clips, use a Jimmy or flathead screwdriver.

Step 5

              Unlatch the clips (Side)
  • If you are having trouble doing this, use a pry tool. An unserviced monitor may not come up as easily.
  • With the monitor unclipped on the bottom, pull the sides of the monitor up. Do this slowly to avoid cracking the LCD.

If you are having trouble doing this, use a pry tool. An unserviced monitor may not come up as easily.

With the monitor unclipped on the bottom, pull the sides of the monitor up. Do this slowly to avoid cracking the LCD.

Step 6

              Remove the IEC socket screws
  • After these screws are removed, the power supply will be exposed.
  • With the back of the monitor off, remove the 2 screws on the IEC power connector using a Phillips #0 screwdriver.

After these screws are removed, the power supply will be exposed.

With the back of the monitor off, remove the 2 screws on the IEC power connector using a Phillips #0 screwdriver.

Step 7

              Remove the video connection screws
  • If you do not have a nut driver on hand, needlenoose plyers can be used.
  • Remove the 4 screw pins for the video cables from the monitor. Use a 5mm Nut bit/driver to remove the screw pins from the power supply shield.

If you do not have a nut driver on hand, needlenoose plyers can be used.

Remove the 4 screw pins for the video cables from the monitor. Use a 5mm Nut bit/driver to remove the screw pins from the power supply shield.

Step 8

              Disconnect the backlight cables
  • Disconnect the CCFL cables from the power supply board.

Disconnect the CCFL cables from the power supply board.

Step 9

              Disconnect the button board
  • Board removal is optional.
  • Disconnect the flat flex cable that goes to the control board.

Board removal is optional.

Disconnect the flat flex cable that goes to the control board.

Step 10

              Remove the power supply shield (Part 1)
  • Remove the 2 lower screws that hold the power supply shield to the monitor with a Phillips #0 screwdriver.

Remove the 2 lower screws that hold the power supply shield to the monitor with a Phillips #0 screwdriver.

Step 11

              Remove the power supply shield (Part 2)
  • The lower shield does not have to be removed. However, it will make disassembly easier.
  • On the right side of the monitor, remove the remaining screws holding the shield in place.
  • Lift the lower plate up while removing the power supply shield to remove it from the monitor. Once this is done, you will have access to the power supply.

The lower shield does not have to be removed. However, it will make disassembly easier.

On the right side of the monitor, remove the remaining screws holding the shield in place.

Lift the lower plate up while removing the power supply shield to remove it from the monitor. Once this is done, you will have access to the power supply.

Step 12

              Remove the power supply
  • If you see bulged capacitors, assume there is residual charge. THE FILTER CAPACITOR MUST BE DISCHARGED! THE BLACK SCREW IS A GROUNDING SCREW AND MUST BE PLACED CORRECTLY.
  • This capacitor is only found on older power supplies. Replacement is advised, but not required.
  • With the power supply shield removed from the monitor, identify the power supply. Take note of the values, including the inverter cap (if present).
  • Remove the 4 screws from the power supply. Once this is done, lift up the power supply at a slight angle to clear the chassis. Do not lift too much or the connector may be damaged!

If you see bulged capacitors, assume there is residual charge. THE FILTER CAPACITOR MUST BE DISCHARGED! THE BLACK SCREW IS A GROUNDING SCREW AND MUST BE PLACED CORRECTLY.

This capacitor is only found on older power supplies. Replacement is advised, but not required.

With the power supply shield removed from the monitor, identify the power supply. Take note of the values, including the inverter cap (if present).

Remove the 4 screws from the power supply. Once this is done, lift up the power supply at a slight angle to clear the chassis. Do not lift too much or the connector may be damaged!

Step 13

              (Optional) Capacitor polarity marking
  • If the PCB is marked to avoid mis-installation, the flux will wash these marks off.
  • If you are unsure of the position of the capacitors, mark the polarity with a permanent marker. If the capacitors are incorrectly installed, they will explode when power is applied.

If the PCB is marked to avoid mis-installation, the flux will wash these marks off.

If you are unsure of the position of the capacitors, mark the polarity with a permanent marker. If the capacitors are incorrectly installed, they will explode when power is applied.

Step 14

              Add flux to the capacitor leads
  • If you do not have flux on hand, solder can be used. Some flux is difficult to clean if overused.
  • To prepare the board for capacitor replacement, add flux or solder.

If you do not have flux on hand, solder can be used. Some flux is difficult to clean if overused.

To prepare the board for capacitor replacement, add flux or solder.

Step 15

              Remove the old capacitors
  • Use of a Helping Hands is recommended to avoid soldering iron contact. If you do not have one, hold the board at an angle.
  • While a partial replacement may work, the remaining capacitors will fail. It is best to do them all while servicing the failed ones. Refer to this guide for a soldering “how to”.
  • Move to a workspace with ventilation or use a fume extractor. Once in an appropriate workspace, desolder the old capacitors. Heat up each leg and remove it.
  • After removing the capacitors, clean up the old solder with a desoldering braid. Lift it with the iron when removing it.

Use of a Helping Hands is recommended to avoid soldering iron contact. If you do not have one, hold the board at an angle.

While a partial replacement may work, the remaining capacitors will fail. It is best to do them all while servicing the failed ones. Refer to this guide for a soldering “how to”.

Move to a workspace with ventilation or use a fume extractor. Once in an appropriate workspace, desolder the old capacitors. Heat up each leg and remove it.

After removing the capacitors, clean up the old solder with a desoldering braid. Lift it with the iron when removing it.

Step 16

              Installing brand new capacitors
  • Check the capacitor polarity before soldering the new capacitors in. Incorrectly installed capacitors will explode with power applied!
  • Install the new capacitors. Check the polarity and bend the leads so they do not come loose during installation.

Check the capacitor polarity before soldering the new capacitors in. Incorrectly installed capacitors will explode with power applied!

Install the new capacitors. Check the polarity and bend the leads so they do not come loose during installation.

Step 17

              Solder the new capacitors in
  • Once the polarity is verified, solder the capacitors in. After installation, cut off any excess lead.

Once the polarity is verified, solder the capacitors in. After installation, cut off any excess lead.

Step 18

              Clean the flux off of the board
  • After verifying there are no cold solder joints, clean the board. This can be cleaned with 91%+ Isopropyl or denatured alcohol.

After verifying there are no cold solder joints, clean the board. This can be cleaned with 91%+ Isopropyl or denatured alcohol.

Step 19

              Test the monitor
  • Put the monitor back together and test the repair.

Put the monitor back together and test the repair.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Cancel: I did not complete this guide.

                                                                                      12 other people completed this guide.

Author

                                      with 5 other contributors 


                    Nick

Member since: 11/10/2009

80,540 Reputation

                                      41 Guides authored                  



                       Badges:
                       55







                                                        +52 more badges

Team

                       Master Techs                        

                                                  Member of Master Techs 



                    Community                     


                                            310 Members                     


                                            1,168 Guides authored

Thomas Brady - Nov 23, 2016

Reply

I did not replace the large capacitor on the Acer monitor yet. All other caps have been replaced. I may have to replace the FSPO55- ZP102A as it has a hot spot beside it. I don’t know if the part number is right? Do know where I can buy it. Tom B

Nick - Nov 23, 2016

These older CCFL panels usually burn on the PCB by the inverter coil and main transformer (the Delta branded part, in this case). The LED monitors limit the failure points to the transformer.

It sounds like your PCB got burned from the heat by the transformer or the inverter coil. This is very common and the boards are designed to take it. However, if you are concerned you should buy a new power supply board altogether if that makes you more comfortable.

Brennan Gomolka - Dec 25, 2016

Reply

In step 12, replacing the capacitors with ones with a different capacitance rating instead of using a capacitor rated for higher voltage makes no sense to me electrically. The capacitance rating is the important part, if you use a capacator rated for say 35 volts when the original is rated for 10 makes no difference whatsoever. the rating just means MAX voltage.

Aiden - Dec 21, 2017

Reply

Thanks @nick! Just waiting for the parts to come in!

Aiden - Feb 20, 2018

@nick which one is the filter capacitor?