Amazon Fire 5Th Generation Screen And Lcd Replacement Repair Guide

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

14

Time Required

                          2 hours            

Sections

3

• Speaker
• 3 steps
• Motherboard
• 7 steps
• Screen and LCD
• 4 steps

Flags

1

Slice and Dice

The steps in this guide should be split up and made into a series of prerequisite guides.

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Introduction

In order to perform this replacement you will need to use heat tools such as either the iOpener or a high heat gun so be aware of how to properly use these tools as well as proper safety gear to prevent injury or damage to the device.

What you need

Step 1

              Speaker               

• Ensure that your device is turned off.
• Remove any micro-SD card that may be installed in the Fire. Failure to do so could damage the micro-SD card itself or the micro-SD card reader on the Fire.
• While holding the device firmly, wedge the iFixit Opening Tool into the crease along the outer edge of the device (as shown in the image).
• Slowly, grind the iFixit Opening Tool into the crease along the outer edges of the device until the entire back cover loosens.
• Then, remove the back cover from the device.

Ensure that your device is turned off.

Remove any micro-SD card that may be installed in the Fire. Failure to do so could damage the micro-SD card itself or the micro-SD card reader on the Fire.

While holding the device firmly, wedge the iFixit Opening Tool into the crease along the outer edge of the device (as shown in the image).

Slowly, grind the iFixit Opening Tool into the crease along the outer edges of the device until the entire back cover loosens.

Then, remove the back cover from the device.

1024

Step 2

• Pry the speaker from the case using the iFixit Opening Tool.
• Lift the speaker up from the device to remove the speaker wires from their groove in the case.
• Be careful not to pull the speaker wires from the motherboard.

Pry the speaker from the case using the iFixit Opening Tool.

Lift the speaker up from the device to remove the speaker wires from their groove in the case.

Be careful not to pull the speaker wires from the motherboard.

Step 3

• Desolder the speaker wires from the motherboard.
• iFixit has a helpful guide explaining how to solder and desolder here: How To Solder and Desolder Connections

Desolder the speaker wires from the motherboard.

iFixit has a helpful guide explaining how to solder and desolder here: How To Solder and Desolder Connections

Step 4

              Motherboard               

To disconnect the battery connector, use angled ESD precision tweezers to lift the cables up and out of their socket.

Make sure you pull the battery connector cables themselves out and not the actual socket. Doing this step incorrectly could result in breaking the connector entirely.

Step 5

• Use a PH0 size Phillips screwdriver head to unscrew the five 2 mm screws on the motherboard. These screws are circled with red in the given image.
• Ensure that you keep track of these screws once removed.

Use a PH0 size Phillips screwdriver head to unscrew the five 2 mm screws on the motherboard. These screws are circled with red in the given image.

Ensure that you keep track of these screws once removed.

Step 6

• The LCD- Motherboard connector cable has a protective overlay that you must peel back with precision tweezers in order to expose the actual connector.
• Gently pull down on the connector cable using precision tweezers in order to disconnect the cable.

The LCD- Motherboard connector cable has a protective overlay that you must peel back with precision tweezers in order to expose the actual connector.

Gently pull down on the connector cable using precision tweezers in order to disconnect the cable.

Step 7

To remove the cable, use the iFixit Opening Tool to unlock the LCD Digitizer cable connector.

Once the wire connector is removed, use the iFixit Opening Tool to pry the entire LCD Digitizer away from the motherboard.

Remove any tape that may be covering the connector.

Step 8

• The volume and power buttons must both be repositioned in order to remove the motherboard.
• To reposition the power and volume buttons, use the iFixit Opening Tool to pull the plastic casing upwards. Then, remove the casing completely.
• Make sure that both the volume and the power buttons are free from the plastic casing before separating the motherboard from its case.
• Be very careful when repositioning the volume buttons, since the fragile digitizer ribbon cable runs from the motherboard to the digitizer right next to the volume buttons. It is very easy to damage the ribbon cable while working in this area.

The volume and power buttons must both be repositioned in order to remove the motherboard.

To reposition the power and volume buttons, use the iFixit Opening Tool to pull the plastic casing upwards. Then, remove the casing completely.

Make sure that both the volume and the power buttons are free from the plastic casing before separating the motherboard from its case.

Be very careful when repositioning the volume buttons, since the fragile digitizer ribbon cable runs from the motherboard to the digitizer right next to the volume buttons. It is very easy to damage the ribbon cable while working in this area.

Step 9

• The rear facing camera wire connector must be disconnected in order to remove the motherboard.
• To remove the rear facing wire connector, insert the iFixit Opening Tool beneath the connector and wedge it upwards.

The rear facing camera wire connector must be disconnected in order to remove the motherboard.

To remove the rear facing wire connector, insert the iFixit Opening Tool beneath the connector and wedge it upwards.

Step 10

• Position the iFixit Opening Tool beneath the motherboard and pull upwards to remove the motherboard from its case.
• Please handle the motherboard with gloves because skin oils can damage the connections on the board.

Position the iFixit Opening Tool beneath the motherboard and pull upwards to remove the motherboard from its case.

Please handle the motherboard with gloves because skin oils can damage the connections on the board.

Step 11

              Screen and LCD               

• Because heat is required to remove the screen and LCD, it is advisable to remove the battery entirely as well.
• It is important to be very careful and use little force in this step. Too much force can damage the battery. A damaged battery can lead to an electrical fire or explosion of the battery.
• Carefully and slowly work the iFixit Opening Tool down the edge of the battery pack. Angle the tool to pry it up.
• When you have successfully lifted the battery pack up on one side or corner, carefully wedge the iFixit Opening Tool under the pack about 1/2" and work around the rest of the sides.
• Be careful not to bend the battery pack.

Because heat is required to remove the screen and LCD, it is advisable to remove the battery entirely as well.

It is important to be very careful and use little force in this step. Too much force can damage the battery. A damaged battery can lead to an electrical fire or explosion of the battery.

Carefully and slowly work the iFixit Opening Tool down the edge of the battery pack. Angle the tool to pry it up.

When you have successfully lifted the battery pack up on one side or corner, carefully wedge the iFixit Opening Tool under the pack about 1/2" and work around the rest of the sides.

Be careful not to bend the battery pack.

Step 12

As you heat the edges, use a separator tool such as a guitar pick to lift the glass panel up and hold it up as you work around the device.

Do not use a separation tool on the top edge of the device where the front camera would be; the digitizer cable is located in this location and can easily be severed. Instead, work in a U shape until you have 3 sides lifted from the frame

Be patient with this step because it can be very time consuming and remember to use proper safety gear when using a heating device.

Step 13

Note the digitizer cable coming through to the back as it may be hard to see! Carefully thread this piece through its slot and separate the glass panel from the device frame.

Try to preserve as much of the double-sided foam adhesive as possible, since you will need it to reinstall the replacement screen.

Step 14

• To remove the LCD panel, flip the device over and detach the LCD digitizer cable from the frame if they have become stuck together.
• You can use the iFixit Opening Tool to separate the LCD panel from the adhesive and it should come out of place with ease.

To remove the LCD panel, flip the device over and detach the LCD digitizer cable from the frame if they have become stuck together.

You can use the iFixit Opening Tool to separate the LCD panel from the adhesive and it should come out of place with ease.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Aaron Miller - Sep 5, 2016

Reply

So……. what’s that Glass panel part number?

interstone696 - Oct 20, 2016

Reply

Where can I get the Digitizer? It appears to me (from your guide) the screens (Digitizer and LCD) DO in fact, separate. It does seem odd to me, from being in the industry for so long, that the digitizer has a polarizer attached to it. That polarizer is usually adhered to the LCD screen and that usually suggests that the repair part would call for a screen assembly.. Not just a digitizer. Can you attach some more pictures of the digitizer and the connector itself to clarify? Also, If you know where to order the part domestically and can you post a link? Thank you! Great guide BTW.

Terry Roberts - Nov 3, 2016

Reply

If the speaker and wire (twisted red&white) are removed from the case (step 2 above), then you won’t need to desolder the connection to the motherboard (step 3 above). Just leave it soldered and remove with motherboard (step 10 above).

….or desolder connection and leave the speaker & wire in the case, if you like to “play with powertools?” ;-)

graham foulkes - Nov 3, 2016

Reply

Why remove the battery? It was by far the most tricky operation and exposed the battery to damage prying it out with a flat tool. Any puncture of the plastic jacket qoulds mean instant death to the battery and if any metal tool in contact, a fire hazard. BTW where do you get a replacement digitized for the 7inch 5th generation Kindle?