Amazon Fire Hd 8 8Th Gen Digitizer Replacement Repair Guide

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

                          45 minutes - 1 hour

Sections

Digitizer
16 steps

Flags

Member-Contributed Guide

An awesome member of our community made this guide. It is not managed by iFixit staff.

History
Save to Favorites
Download PDF
Edit
Translate
Get Shareable Link
Embed This Guide
Notify Me of Changes
Stop Notifications

Introduction

What you need

Step 1

              Remove the Back Cover (1)

Starting on the left side near the top, insert your Opening Tool in the crack between the case and the bezel. Be careful not to insert into the crack between the screen glass and the bezel.
In a pinch, a strong fingernail will do instead of the Opening Tool.
Work your way down towards the bottom, around the corner, across the bottom to the other corner. Use an Opening Pick to prevent the tabs from snapping back together if needed.
Once the second corner is released, the right side should fall off fairly easily. If not, work your way up like the first side.

Starting on the left side near the top, insert your Opening Tool in the crack between the case and the bezel. Be careful not to insert into the crack between the screen glass and the bezel.

In a pinch, a strong fingernail will do instead of the Opening Tool.

Work your way down towards the bottom, around the corner, across the bottom to the other corner. Use an Opening Pick to prevent the tabs from snapping back together if needed.

Once the second corner is released, the right side should fall off fairly easily. If not, work your way up like the first side.

1024

Step 2

              Remove the Back Cover (2)

Lift the back cover off, tilting towards the top as if it was a hinge. There are no cables or wires connecting the back, but be careful around the top of the device. All the buttons and connections are on this edge and lifting this edge up could damage them.

Lift the back cover off, tilting towards the top as if it was a hinge. There are no cables or wires connecting the back, but be careful around the top of the device. All the buttons and connections are on this edge and lifting this edge up could damage them.

Step 3

              Disconnect the Battery

Using the tip of your Spudger, release the battery connector.
Bend the battery connector up and out of the way to ensure it will not make contact with the circuit again. The wires are stiff and will hold the connector out of the way.

Using the tip of your Spudger, release the battery connector.

Bend the battery connector up and out of the way to ensure it will not make contact with the circuit again. The wires are stiff and will hold the connector out of the way.

Step 4

              Apply Heat to the Display

If your glass is cracked, before removing use some tape to hold it together. If it shatters or breaks further, this will prevent glass shards from causing injury.
Using your heat gun, heat the edges of the glass to soften the adhesive. Start at the top right corner and work your around.
An iOpener or a heating pad will work just as well as a heat gun.
Follow the same path as with the case, working your way down to the bottom, around the corners, and back up.
If at any time the adhesive becomes hard, stop and apply more heat. Do not attempt to cut the adhesive if it is too hard.
Throughout the next steps, take extra care not to insert your Opening Pick too far. The LCD underneath is delicate and can be scratched even by the plastic pick as you’re cutting the adhesive away.

If your glass is cracked, before removing use some tape to hold it together. If it shatters or breaks further, this will prevent glass shards from causing injury.

Using your heat gun, heat the edges of the glass to soften the adhesive. Start at the top right corner and work your around.

An iOpener or a heating pad will work just as well as a heat gun.

Follow the same path as with the case, working your way down to the bottom, around the corners, and back up.

If at any time the adhesive becomes hard, stop and apply more heat. Do not attempt to cut the adhesive if it is too hard.

Throughout the next steps, take extra care not to insert your Opening Pick too far. The LCD underneath is delicate and can be scratched even by the plastic pick as you’re cutting the adhesive away.

Step 5

              Separate the Digitizer (1)

After heating, use a Suction Handle to lift up on the glass.
Insert an Opening Pick on the top edge near the right corner.
Now and throughout the next steps, take extra care not to insert your Opening Picks beyond the black border on the digitizer, or you may cause irreparable damage to the LCD.
After ensuring the Opening Pick is inserted, remove the Suction Handle.
Leave an Opening Pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Using a second opening pick, slide down the right side, cutting through the adhesive, until you reach the bottom right corner. Leave the second pick in the second corner.

After heating, use a Suction Handle to lift up on the glass.

Insert an Opening Pick on the top edge near the right corner.

Now and throughout the next steps, take extra care not to insert your Opening Picks beyond the black border on the digitizer, or you may cause irreparable damage to the LCD.

After ensuring the Opening Pick is inserted, remove the Suction Handle.

Leave an Opening Pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Using a second opening pick, slide down the right side, cutting through the adhesive, until you reach the bottom right corner. Leave the second pick in the second corner.

Step 6

              Magnets

There are four magnets, in two pairs of two, on the right side of the case.
When removing the old digitizer, it is highly likely these magnets (red) will stick to the adhesive on the old digitizer and be removed.
Make sure to remove them from the old digitizer and replace them into the frame (orange) before putting the new digitizer on the device.

There are four magnets, in two pairs of two, on the right side of the case.

When removing the old digitizer, it is highly likely these magnets (red) will stick to the adhesive on the old digitizer and be removed.

Make sure to remove them from the old digitizer and replace them into the frame (orange) before putting the new digitizer on the device.

Step 7

              Separate the Digitizer (2)

In the same manner as before, use a new opening pick to separate the bottom of the display going from right to left.
Leave the pick in the bottom left corner and insert a new pick to slice through the adhesive on the left hand side.
If at any time the adhesive is too hard, stop and apply more heat.

In the same manner as before, use a new opening pick to separate the bottom of the display going from right to left.

Leave the pick in the bottom left corner and insert a new pick to slice through the adhesive on the left hand side.

If at any time the adhesive is too hard, stop and apply more heat.

Step 8

              Separate the Digitizer (3)

Slice the adhesive on the left side, working your way up from the bottom corner.
When you reach the top left corner, leave the Opening Pick there to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
You should now have 4 opening picks, one in each corner, holding the display separate from the frame, and only adhesive on the top edge.
If at any time the adhesive is too hard, stop and apply more heat.

Slice the adhesive on the left side, working your way up from the bottom corner.

When you reach the top left corner, leave the Opening Pick there to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

You should now have 4 opening picks, one in each corner, holding the display separate from the frame, and only adhesive on the top edge.

Step 9

              Digitizer Cautions

Note the placement of the ribbon cable (red).
Note the area where the digitizer leads connect to the ribbon cable (orange).
The third photo shows where these are from the outside, so you know where to take extra care before you get the digitizer off.

Note the placement of the ribbon cable (red).

Note the area where the digitizer leads connect to the ribbon cable (orange).

The third photo shows where these are from the outside, so you know where to take extra care before you get the digitizer off.

Step 10

              Separate the Digitizer (4)

Taking extra care around the caution areas mentioned in the previous step, use a final opening pick to slice through the adhesive on the top edge.
Once the adhesive is cut through, lift the digitizer from the bottom edge, keeping the top edge connected.
Avoid straining the ribbon cable, as it is delicate and can cause issues on the motherboard.
Extend the digitizer to a 180 degree angle and flip the device over.
Make sure you have a microfiber or other soft cloth down, to prevent scratches or scuffs to the LCD screen.

Taking extra care around the caution areas mentioned in the previous step, use a final opening pick to slice through the adhesive on the top edge.

Once the adhesive is cut through, lift the digitizer from the bottom edge, keeping the top edge connected.

Avoid straining the ribbon cable, as it is delicate and can cause issues on the motherboard.

Extend the digitizer to a 180 degree angle and flip the device over.

Make sure you have a microfiber or other soft cloth down, to prevent scratches or scuffs to the LCD screen.

Step 11

              Disconnect the Digitizer (1)

Remove the tape holding the ribbon connector down.
Using the tip of your spudger, lift the locking clip of the connector to release the ribbon cable.
Using your tweezers, remove the ribbon cable from the connector.

Remove the tape holding the ribbon connector down.

Using the tip of your spudger, lift the locking clip of the connector to release the ribbon cable.

Using your tweezers, remove the ribbon cable from the connector.

Step 12

              Disconnect the Digitizer (2)

Using the flat end of your spudger, pry up the connector.
Lift the connector until it is vertical, but be careful not to lift too high as you can strain the ribbon cable and possibly break it.

Using the flat end of your spudger, pry up the connector.

Lift the connector until it is vertical, but be careful not to lift too high as you can strain the ribbon cable and possibly break it.

Step 13

              Disconnect the Camera

Step 14

              Circuit Board

Remove the four screws (blue). The screws are identical and interchangeable, so you don’t need to keep track of which screw went where.
Note that one screw is covered with a sticker. Don’t miss this one or you may crack the circuit board.
Release the two locking clips (yellow). The clips are holding the board down on the corners and it cannot be released easily without pulling back on them.
The board only needs to be lifted enough to let the digitizer connector through, it does not need to be removed completely.
Take note of the speaker wires (red). They are soldered onto the board and special care should be taken to ensure they are not broken or otherwise disconnected.

Remove the four screws (blue). The screws are identical and interchangeable, so you don’t need to keep track of which screw went where.

Note that one screw is covered with a sticker. Don’t miss this one or you may crack the circuit board.

Release the two locking clips (yellow). The clips are holding the board down on the corners and it cannot be released easily without pulling back on them.

The board only needs to be lifted enough to let the digitizer connector through, it does not need to be removed completely.

Take note of the speaker wires (red). They are soldered onto the board and special care should be taken to ensure they are not broken or otherwise disconnected.

Step 15

              Remove the Old Digitizer

With the adhesive cut and the motherboard released, lift it up and gently work the digitizer connector out of the hole.
You will have to work backwards and slide the digitizer back under the device to maneuver the ribbon connector through the hole in the frame.
When the connector is through the hole, pull the entire digitizer out. If you continue pushing through, the hard corners on the connector can scratch the LCD underneath.

With the adhesive cut and the motherboard released, lift it up and gently work the digitizer connector out of the hole.

You will have to work backwards and slide the digitizer back under the device to maneuver the ribbon connector through the hole in the frame.

When the connector is through the hole, pull the entire digitizer out. If you continue pushing through, the hard corners on the connector can scratch the LCD underneath.

Step 16

              Clean Off the Adhesive

With the digitizer completely removed, flip the device back over and clean off the old adhesive.
Most of it will stick to itself and can be pulled off, though some residue may remain.
Using a cotton swab and 90%+ isopropyl alcohol, clean the frame to ensure it is free of residue and debris and will be ready for the replacement digitizer.

With the digitizer completely removed, flip the device back over and clean off the old adhesive.

Most of it will stick to itself and can be pulled off, though some residue may remain.

Using a cotton swab and 90%+ isopropyl alcohol, clean the frame to ensure it is free of residue and debris and will be ready for the replacement digitizer.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Cancel: I did not complete this guide.

                                                                                      One other person completed this guide.

Author

                                      with 1 other contributor

                    Justin Castle

Member since: 11/05/2020

463 Reputation

                                      3 Guides authored                  



                       Badges:
                       7







                                                        +4 more badges

Member-Contributed Guide#

Introduction#

What you need#

Member-Contributed Guide

Introduction

What you need