Difficulty
Difficult
Steps
14
Time Required
1 hour
Sections
3
- Speaker
- 4 steps
- Motherboard
- 3 steps
- Button
- 7 steps
Flags
1
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Introduction
What you need
Step 1
Speaker
- Using a metal spudger, push down between the edge seals on the base and pry off the base.
- Do not confuse the top thin layer of rubber with the thick palette that needs to be removed.
- This may require substantial force.
Using a metal spudger, push down between the edge seals on the base and pry off the base.
Do not confuse the top thin layer of rubber with the thick palette that needs to be removed.
This may require substantial force.
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Step 2
- Use the T-10 bit from the iFixit tool kit to unscrew the four 1.4 inch corner screws on top of the first layer.
- There are 4 washers to go with each of the screws.
Use the T-10 bit from the iFixit tool kit to unscrew the four 1.4 inch corner screws on top of the first layer.
There are 4 washers to go with each of the screws.
Step 3
- Lift and remove the full frame.
Lift and remove the full frame.
Step 4
- Lift and remove the speaker.
- Carefully match the outlets on the speaker with the outlets on the motherboard.
Lift and remove the speaker.
Carefully match the outlets on the speaker with the outlets on the motherboard.
Step 5
Motherboard
- Lift the black latch by gently prying up with the flat end of the Spudger.
- Detach the copper tap by pulling it out.
Lift the black latch by gently prying up with the flat end of the Spudger.
Detach the copper tap by pulling it out.
Step 6
- Use the pointed end of the Spudger to carefully detach the black and white wires from the motherboard.
- Make sure all three attachments (the copper tab and both wires) are fully disconnected before continuing.
Use the pointed end of the Spudger to carefully detach the black and white wires from the motherboard.
Make sure all three attachments (the copper tab and both wires) are fully disconnected before continuing.
Step 7
- Gently pry the motherboard up and off.
Gently pry the motherboard up and off.
Step 8
Button
- Detach the wires from the opposite end of the frame using the flat end of the Spudger.
- You can’t see where the wires are attached because it is hidden underneath the white frame.
- Make sure both wire attachments are fully disconnected before continuing.
Detach the wires from the opposite end of the frame using the flat end of the Spudger.
You can’t see where the wires are attached because it is hidden underneath the white frame.
Make sure both wire attachments are fully disconnected before continuing.
Step 9
- Pry apart the black plastic face from metal frame.
- This requires substantial force.
- Be careful not to tear connecting copper tab.
Pry apart the black plastic face from metal frame.
This requires substantial force.
Be careful not to tear connecting copper tab.
Step 10
- Lift the black latch to detach the copper tab by gently prying with the Angled Tweezers.
- Use the Angled Tweezers to carefully pull out the copper tab.
Lift the black latch to detach the copper tab by gently prying with the Angled Tweezers.
Use the Angled Tweezers to carefully pull out the copper tab.
Step 11
- Unscrew the five T-6 quarter inch screws.
Unscrew the five T-6 quarter inch screws.
Step 12
- Lift and remove white the frame to reveal the circuit board.
Lift and remove white the frame to reveal the circuit board.
Step 13
- Using a the Metal Spudger, pry up the circuit board to reveal a rubber button panel.
Using a the Metal Spudger, pry up the circuit board to reveal a rubber button panel.
Step 14
- Peel back the rubber button casing.
- Pay close attention to the orientation of the rubber casing.
Peel back the rubber button casing.
Pay close attention to the orientation of the rubber casing.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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Author
with 3 other contributors
Kailey Jackson
Member since: 09/27/2018
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2 Guides authored
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Team
Linn Benton Community College, Team S1-G1, Johnson Fall 2018
Member of Linn Benton Community College, Team S1-G1, Johnson Fall 2018
LBCC-JOHNSON-F18S1G1
4 Members
5 Guides authored
Phil G - Jan 23, 2022
Reply
A suggestion for step 8: the antenna wires are not soldered to the aluminum heatsink; they are soldered to small clips that are easily popped off from the heatsink. I found it much easier to pop off all the clips and free the antenna wires from the heatsink than try to remove the antenna connectors from the top circuit board while it is still attached to the frame. After removing the top circuit board from the frame, it’s then much easier to remove the antenna connectors.
