Attach Your Earphones Permanently Repair Guide

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Difficult

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                          1 hour

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To Attach Your Earphones Permanently
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Introduction

What you need

Step 1

              To Attach Your Earphones Permanently

First of all, before you continue, remember that this is a guide to attach your beloved earphones permanently to Jabra Clipper. Those who have weak hearts should not proceed.

First of all, before you continue, remember that this is a guide to attach your beloved earphones permanently to Jabra Clipper. Those who have weak hearts should not proceed.

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Step 2

Start by cutting your earphone wires. I cut around 30cms from the earbuds, which allows free head movements while the Clipper attaches to the neck side of T-shirt.

Start by cutting your earphone wires. I cut around 30cms from the earbuds, which allows free head movements while the Clipper attaches to the neck side of T-shirt.

Step 3

The Jabra Clipper’s cover is actually made of very elastic rubber, which allows many hacking possibiliites!
You’ll need to peel the cover. Start by inserting a screwdriver from any of the sides until you hit the steel chassis. Pull it upwards, and do the rest of uncovering ritual with your fingers.
Clean up the remaining sealant from the sides of the case. Now there the waterproofing goes! Relax, nobody needs waterproofing. Well at least, not on the level of what was offered by Jabra Clipper!

The Jabra Clipper’s cover is actually made of very elastic rubber, which allows many hacking possibiliites!

You’ll need to peel the cover. Start by inserting a screwdriver from any of the sides until you hit the steel chassis. Pull it upwards, and do the rest of uncovering ritual with your fingers.

Clean up the remaining sealant from the sides of the case. Now there the waterproofing goes! Relax, nobody needs waterproofing. Well at least, not on the level of what was offered by Jabra Clipper!

Step 4

Once uncovered, you’ll see the main PCB on the front panel, and the battery on the back. Both top and front PCBs are covered with some transparent hard plastic protector.
Watch out for the battery cables, you may need to gently pull them out later. Use a screwdriver when so.

Once uncovered, you’ll see the main PCB on the front panel, and the battery on the back. Both top and front PCBs are covered with some transparent hard plastic protector.

Watch out for the battery cables, you may need to gently pull them out later. Use a screwdriver when so.

Step 5

Unscrew the two black screws on top of the device.

Unscrew the two black screws on top of the device.

Step 6

Before you can remove the top plastic, you’ll need to unlock the clip on upper right corner. Use a screwdriver for that. The top plastic will pop, and you can remove them.
Remember, be careful to never strain the flex cable on top left, connecting front and top PCB!
To remove the front plastic, use the screwdriver to pop it, starting from the bottom, and moving on to the sides.

Before you can remove the top plastic, you’ll need to unlock the clip on upper right corner. Use a screwdriver for that. The top plastic will pop, and you can remove them.

Remember, be careful to never strain the flex cable on top left, connecting front and top PCB!

To remove the front plastic, use the screwdriver to pop it, starting from the bottom, and moving on to the sides.

Step 7

Now you’ll need to remove the front PCB. Check out the clip on the top, left, and a bit lower to the right. Pry open from the bottom of the front PCB, and work to the right and left clips. The top clip isn’t movable so you’ll have to move a bit downwards to pull the front PCB.
Now you may remove the top PCB. Again, beware not to strain the flex cable! To remove the top PCB, gently lift the microusb port side upwards, and push audio jack side to the microusb sideward, to remove it from the clip.

Now you’ll need to remove the front PCB. Check out the clip on the top, left, and a bit lower to the right. Pry open from the bottom of the front PCB, and work to the right and left clips. The top clip isn’t movable so you’ll have to move a bit downwards to pull the front PCB.

Now you may remove the top PCB. Again, beware not to strain the flex cable! To remove the top PCB, gently lift the microusb port side upwards, and push audio jack side to the microusb sideward, to remove it from the clip.

Step 8

It’s not mandatory to remove the battery to solder your earphones, but removing it would provide a bit of flexibility when soldering them. Also, now you can see that it’s a 100mAh battery.

It’s not mandatory to remove the battery to solder your earphones, but removing it would provide a bit of flexibility when soldering them. Also, now you can see that it’s a 100mAh battery.

Step 9

I didn’t needed to remove the 3.5mm audio jack to solder the earphones, and guess what, I can now plug another earphones here. It works as a splitter!
Get ready to solder your earphones. Notice the spots where you should solder your R, L, and two G (common) wires from your earphone. I’ve got a couple of extra solders on the top right and left, only to figure out that those joints are active only when a 3.5mm jack is plugged in. Oh well.
Now reverse the steps to assemble the Jabra Clipper back. Please note that you’ll need to cut some of the chassis’ black plastic to allow space as well as let the headphone wires out. I’ve also cut out the top clear plastics clip shown in the previous step.

I didn’t needed to remove the 3.5mm audio jack to solder the earphones, and guess what, I can now plug another earphones here. It works as a splitter!

Get ready to solder your earphones. Notice the spots where you should solder your R, L, and two G (common) wires from your earphone. I’ve got a couple of extra solders on the top right and left, only to figure out that those joints are active only when a 3.5mm jack is plugged in. Oh well.

Now reverse the steps to assemble the Jabra Clipper back. Please note that you’ll need to cut some of the chassis’ black plastic to allow space as well as let the headphone wires out. I’ve also cut out the top clear plastics clip shown in the previous step.

Step 10

Now here’s what Jabra Clipper should be like! No extra wires, no 3.5mm plug hassles, and Sennheiser-quality earbuds! And I’ve actually soldered another battery in parallel on the back, without issue thanks to the elastic rubber cover! Now the Clipper runs 12 hours of talk and music time! Good luck on that with BackBeat Go :p

Now here’s what Jabra Clipper should be like! No extra wires, no 3.5mm plug hassles, and Sennheiser-quality earbuds! And I’ve actually soldered another battery in parallel on the back, without issue thanks to the elastic rubber cover! Now the Clipper runs 12 hours of talk and music time! Good luck on that with BackBeat Go :p

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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                                                                                      6 other people completed this guide.

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                    watchmania

Member since: 09/11/2013

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eltiofabi - Sep 29, 2014

Which glue did you use in order to seal the device once you put the rubber cover back?

watchmania - Nov 21, 2016

Sorry just saw your message. It didn’t need any glue, the rubber cover had lip that clips to the frame as is. Never had it accidentally popped off.

But if your really had to, I think some cut of thin double tape would do.

watchmania - Nov 21, 2016

Unfortunately I didn’t use it anymore since the past couple years as Yosemite update made the Clipper’s bluetooth connection very flaky and almost useless. Too bad, as built in mic is very handy for calls. Back to the iPhone earpods for laptop calls now…

Pontus Hammarbäck - Jan 31, 2017

Nicely done. Where did you find the battery? Mine is getting old and need a refresh…

watchmania - Feb 23, 2019

Now it’s time to move on to aptX receivers — Ugreen 4.2 rocks ;)

Member-Contributed Guide#

Introduction#

What you need#

Member-Contributed Guide

Introduction

What you need